Brussels - Christmas Market

In spite of the for Belgian standards abundances of snow, a friend of mine, Nancy, and I took the car to Brussels. We were supposed to have visited the Christmas Market last Wednesday but as our friends were unable to join us that day, we postponed our trip. The road to Brussels was a joy for the eye. Trees covered with snow and a clear blue wintery sky made that we did not mind having to drive slowly. There was just too much to enjoy. We parked our car at Park 58, a parking lot not only handy as it is situated between the ‘grande place’ and the ‘fish market’ but also known as providing a beautiful almost 360 degree view over the city. If ever, on a clear day, you are in the neighborhood, do not hesitate to visit the roof, even if you did not park your own car there.

Once back on the street we were a bit overwhelmed by the amount of people who apparently had the same idea as we had but it did not refrain us from slowly making our way to the ‘grande place’. I cannot say that there was a lot to see apart from the Christmas stall with real sheep and a big tree. But for once, the doors to the town hall were open and for a minute or two we had a quick glance at the inner court. I dare say that it was rather sober, a big contrast with the outside of the building. On the way to the fish market we stopped for a glüwhein at a stall in front of the Cirio, one of the best known pubs along the Bourse and worth a visit for those who love a good beer or a nice meal.

 It was time to set out for the fish market as we had not only planned to wander past the different Christmas stalls but also wanted to enjoy some lovely oysters in a stall I discovered two weeks before when visiting Brussels with another friend.

I dare pretend that most of the time I do know my way around in Brussels but I have two major problems. I do not remember street names and more often than not I remember having seen something worthwhile to share with my friends but do not know anymore where exactly this place is to be found. Yesterday was no exception. I knew how to go to the fish market and I knew that somewhere in the area there was the Amadeo, a restaurant where you can eat all the ribs you can eat and which had charmed me upon discovery because its walls where lined with books. As two weeks ago we were just too late to be allowed to eat I thought it would be nice to give it another try. But I could not remember whatsoever in which street I could find this restaurant. Nancy is used to me not knowing exactly where I am going but she does not mind. She also knows that in the end we always arrive there where we want to be. But yesterday on the walk to the market, I did not find the restaurant at all but instead I found the Moroccan tent back of which I had talked to Nancy and thus my detour was not in vain.

 At the fish market it was even busier than at the ‘grande place’. People were impatiently pushing to get through and we were quite happy to arrive at the oyster bar which, thank any known and unknown god for small mercies, was heated. The oysters tasted lovely and after eating them we continued our walk around the market. We spent some time at the ice skating ring. Partly because I wanted to take some pictures of the big Ferris wheel in the dark, partly because of a funny old man who was entertaining the children skating around him. But it was getting colder and we were thirsty. We wanted to find a pub where we could have a hot drink and a cigarette but that was not an easy task. Last summer I had visited a lovely pub nearby a church and I told Nancy that I did not exactly remember where this pub was but that we would find it if I took a certain direction towards the Bourse. I did not succeed but instead we ended up in the Lord Byron, a nice little pub, with interesting art on the walls and where, apart from the waiter, almost everyone present was speaking Flemish. We stayed there an hour, just enjoying our Italian coffee and the warmth.

 It was time to grab something to eat and to figure out where we could find the Amadeo. The owner of the pub did not know exactly where we could find the restaurant but a nice girl sitting at the bar told us that we were only two streets away from it. We found the restaurant but we were not the only one and after the hostess rather rudely told us that she did not have a table for two and immediately afterwards offered a table of four to people who arrived almost ten minutes after us, we decided not to wait anymore. In the mean time it started snowing again and we decided that it was better to drive back and to eat closer to home.


Our usual eating hangout however had just closed its doors when we arrived but we did not bother about that and just challenged some more snow covered roads to Klein Willebroek where a far away niece of mine owns restaurant Zeezicht. By the time we finished our bottle of wine and ate a delicious pot of stewed beef it was more than time to drive home.

This might have been a boring story but just remember that this is my blog and that I am entitled to also use it as an ‘aide mémoire’ for the next time I visit Brussels. At least now I have put the links towards the places I want to remember, next time I might also remember to have a look at the street map before setting off. One never knows.

(Click here for more pictures of this beautiful day)